- For one unforgettable lunch, these two culinary virtuosos, each celebrated for their unique approaches to haute cuisine, came together to craft an unparalleled dining experience held in Puerto de Santa María in Cádiz. The result: the creation of the «Acontraviento» menu, a 21-course gastronomic journey that pushed the boundaries of culinary innovation and tantalized the senses with an exceptional fusion of techniques, flavors, and textures.
- This special one-off encounter allowed the two chefs, each with their distinct and innovative approach to the sea, to bring to life a memorable culinary experience.
- Albert Adrià prepared dishes such as the cube of nori seaweed and caviar, the filaments of Espardenya in vinegar, the surprising nitro cloud of mezcal and lime, the marriage of squid and anchovy handkerchief, or the kuzusuizen (with kuzu root) with squid hollandaise. The Aponiente chef also made his own contributions, including the shrimp omelette, mullet flan, squid nigiri, sea porchetta or fig pickle, kombu tatin and croissant ice cream, as well as grilled sea bean with pil pil a la bilbaína.
- «To be able to cook with Àngel León is a unique opportunity. He is one of the professionals I most admire for his talent and his capacity for inventiveness, but I also love his honesty; I think that telling a story is always complicated because you have to constantly reinvent yourself, and Àngel and Aponiente surpass themselves every year, with many contributions he has made to the world of gastronomy looking towards the sea and from the sea», said Albert Adrià about the meeting.
- «In a world in which creativity is spoken of with a certain ease or lightness, cooking with Albert is an apprenticeship for us in that sense. It is cooking with creativity in its purest state», commented chef Ángel León, recently designated Food Hero by the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations).
Puerto de Santa María, September 19, 2023. The Puerto de Santa María in Cádiz bore witness to an unprecedented gastronomic encounter that united two extraordinary creative spirits: the genius of Chef Ángel León from Aponiente and the originality of Albert Adrià from the renowned Enigma. In a one-of-a-kind event that brought together these two masters of haute cuisine, the «Acontraviento» menu was born, a 21-course culinary experience that defied the expectations of the diners present with an extraordinary fusion of techniques, flavors, and textures.
This special one-off encounter allowed the two chefs, each with their distinct and innovative approach to the sea, to bring to life a memorable culinary experience, which included distinctive proposals from Albert Adrià and his cuisine at Enigma, such as the cube of nori seaweed and caviar, the filaments of Espardenya in vinegar, the surprising nitro cloud of mezcal and lime, the marriage of squid and anchovy handkerchief, or the kuzusuizen (with kuzu root) with squid hollandaise. The chef from Aponiente made his own contributions with emblematic dishes from his restaurant such as shrimp omelette, mullet flan, squid nigiri, sea porchetta or fig pickle, kombu tatin and croissant ice cream, as well as the innovative grilled sea bean with pil pil a la bilbaína.
Ángel León, the chef of the sea, expressed his admiration for Albert Adrià’s creativity: «In a world in which creativity is spoken of with a certain ease or lightness, cooking with Albert is an apprenticeship for us in that sense. It is cooking with creativity in its purest form. Marine creativity. It has been an unprecedented experience to unite Enigma’s vision of the sea with that of Aponiente in a unique service… Sharing our vision of the sea».
Albert Adrià commented on the event: «Being able to cook with Àngel León is a unique opportunity. He is one of the professionals I most admire for his talent and his capacity for inventiveness, but I also love his honesty; I think that telling a story is always complicated because you have to constantly reinvent yourself, and Àngel and Aponiente surpass themselves every year, with many contributions he has made to the world of gastronomy looking towards the sea and from the sea. We take the 4-hands very seriously because I consider it an extraordinary opportunity to absorb knowledge and in that sense Ángel is unique; I took advantage of every minute of our time together to enjoy his company and that of the entire Aponiente team, with the aim of bringing happiness to those who came to enjoy this exceptional experience today».
As for the liquid proposal, labels were offered that combine both the purity of the sea at Aponiente and the alchemy produced at Enigma, focusing on the albariza, the typical soil of the Jerez region, with the salinity of the sea as a common thread. A balanced mix that combined the alkaline and iodine flavours of the menu presented.
The «Acontraviento» lunch was a tribute to culinary innovation, passion for the sea, friendship and the mastery of two of Spain’s most influential chefs, who enjoyed this day of mutual learning and allowing themselves to free their minds and their imagination, to connect their visions and their kitchens.
About Enigma and Albert Adrià
*Michelin-starred and #82 The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023
Enigma is Albert Adrià’s only restaurant in Spain located in Barcelona, with an offer inspired by seasonal products (beyond the four seasons) and all the knowledge and experience that the chef has acquired in his more than 35 years of professional career.
The result is a varied and changing menu with around 25 dishes. Enigma seeks not only the quality of the product but also the quality of the idea.
Albert Adrià was born in Hospitalet in 1969. In 1985, he dropped out of school and joined the staff of elBulli, where he became head of the workshop. His career includes the conception and opening of innovative gastronomic projects such as Inopia Classic Bar (2006), 41º (2011), Tickets, with a new vision of the world of tapas, in a fun and informal atmosphere, Pakta (2013), born from Albert’s admiration for Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, Bodega 1900, Niño Viejo, and Hoja Santa.
In 2015, the creative alliance between Albert and Ferran Adrià and Le Cirque du Soleil took place in the Heart Ibiza project. And in 2017 he opened Enigma. A year later, he returned to Café Royal in London to open Cakes & Bubbles. Since 2020, he has been collaborating with José Andrés in the conceptualisation of the Little Spain Market project in New York. In 2022 Enigma reopens its doors with a renewed concept, to which Albert dedicates himself full time along with R&D projects.
About Aponiente and Ángel León
*** Michelin, Michelin Green Star for Sustainability, Sustainable Restaurant 2022 The World’s
50 Best Restaurants and #64 The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023.
The Aponiente restaurant is located in a former 19th century tidal mill. In the heart of the Bahía de Cádiz Natural Park in El Puerto de Santa María, the area is inhabited by marine life that is subject to constant change, given the local climatic conditions and the rhythm of the tides.
Captained by chef Ángel León, recently named «Food Hero» by the FAO (Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations), Aponiente is carrying out the recovery of the environment in which it is located, creating an ecosystem for future generations. A benchmark in sustainability, it promotes the defence of the environment through gastronomy. Sustainable fishing and the use of species that have historically been considered discarded products are the hallmarks of the gastronomic proposal of the «chef of the sea», together with innovation, creativity and honesty. A revolutionary genius whose commitment to nature has led him to discover, use and reinvent foods from the great larder of the sea.
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